Not a brick in this Wall: Profoundly affected by the Berlin’s history
Unmoved by Checkpoint Charlie, Udai marched off in the direction he had been told to, looking for tangible remains of the Berlin Wall. We found this spectacular piece of history just round the corner and along with it, an exhaustive exhibition about Berlin’s history starting from the early 1900s until after the World War II. I’m glad we came here that first day in Berlin as it helped set the tone for our experiences of the city.

Our fellow tourists as engrossed and silent as we were. I saw people shaking their heads in absolute disbelief at some of the stories told at the exhibit

Trying to wrap our little heads around perhaps the most turbulent phase of European history in recent times
To me fell the task of explaining the entire exhibit to Aadyaa. She can’t yet read, but she won’t be left out either! She patiently waited for me to read each panel and then listened to my translation. The exhibition (strategically set up amid the ruined foundations of one of the Gestapo’s important buildings and right alongside the Berlin Wall) affected all of us profoundly as it chronicled the peculiar circumstances behind the rise of the Nazi party in Germany. Against the backdrop of an economic slowdown, it seemed to be that the German people did not quite grasp the danger that was to come when they fell under the spell of Nazi thinking. The stark and totalitarian methods that Nazis used and the impacts of their fascism are hard hitting. It wasn’t the systematic extermination of the Jews that hit me so much because the Holocaust has been a significant part of fiction and non-fiction reading over the years. What really hit me is that the Nazis classified a whole bunch of people as out of the bounds of normal and these included the gypsies, the disabled, homosexuals and even the elderly and those with mental disorders. In their definition, a German had to not just be the correct race but also needed to be able-bodied citizens that contributed to their economy and power. One couldn’t help but see some parallels with some of the right wing talk around the world, not just in India where we have recently emerged battle-scarred after an emotionally exhausting election process (no, I’m not convinced about the ‘achhe din’ tag just yet!). The children’s reactions to this harsh narrative was notable. Udai was silent and thoughtful. Aadyaa’s interest and her clear identification of Hitler as the ‘bad guy’ both impressed and amused us.
We climbed up from the exhibition to finally walk alongside a section of the Berlin Wall. As an architect, I was taken aback by its thinness (it is built in concrete, hence the title of the post!). It appeared almost flimsy to me and yet must have been so formidably strong in the eyes of Berliners during the Cold War. The symbolism of the Wall makes visitors to it walk real slow. At intervals, you see holes in it, and its easy to imagine the crowds on either side tearing it down on the fateful November 9, 1989. It is an event I remember from my childhood, seeing the images on television and not quite grasping its full import. But now, seeing it in flesh and with the sun having come out and shining bright, I could appreciate a lot more. Most of all, the day’s experiences helped me admire the resilience of this amazing city and respect Berlin’s embrace of multiculturalism that I now understand as a way to counter its sordid, violent and divisive past.
More pics of The Wall ahead…
Posted on July 16, 2014, in Politics & Citizenship and tagged Berlin, Berlin Wall, cold war, Germany, history, Holocaust. Bookmark the permalink. 6 Comments.
Ha – the Berlin Wall was such an important part of my growing up years, that I am emotional about it, and the Brandenburg Gate (not so much CC), and feel so good to finally be able to share the bewildering mind numbing wonder that I always felt about walls dividing people up. Remember Manik? He grew up in the East while I used to visit mostly the West, and then we were together for several seasons after 1989, walking the tenuous divide of the bifurcated city, joined newly, with the east still parading the communist regime staccatto concrete housings and the famous graffiti, and the famous undergrounds stations closed off or reopened because of the new contours of the city – Friedrich Strasse and likes. Ah Berlin!! Do go to the Brecht Museum and Theatre if you can – my initiation to theatre was there and in the Museuminsel and Pergamon.
And dont miss out curry wurst! and weinerschnitzel and german cheese cakes 🙂
Yup, Mono! Thought of you often while trawling around. We had only 4 days and covered as much as possible and also simply walked around a lot. BG is now a site for all sorts of demonstrations. CC is a sad touristy spot. The metro stations are absolutely awesome, each with its own character despite the sameness. And the city is so proud of its newness amidst the oldness. Very interesting! Caught myself thinking again and again about what it must have been like in the years after the Wall came down trying to navigate the unified Berlin! And yes, I do remember Manik! And watch out for my Bundestag post…the new dome is really something!
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